Traveling Brazil's Northern Coast Part II - Lençois Maranhenses to Belém

After we had travelled around 1000km along the Northern Brazilian coast from Recife to the famous beach hippie mecca Jericoacoara, another 1200km along the coast lay ahead of us in order to reach Belém, the gateway to the Amazon.

Getting from Jericoacoara to Lençois Maranhenses

Our next stop was the national park Lençois Maranhenses, one of those destinations that leaves an impression for a long time. The coastal route from Jericoacoara to the Lençois Maranhenses is an adventure itself, often referred to as the “Rota das Emoções”, literally the ‘route of the emotions’. It’s called like this because you’ll surely be overwhelmed by the natural paradises to be explored along the way as well as get lots of excitement from the jeep roaring along the beach and up and down the dunes. It’s a straight one-day 4 WD transfer from Jeri to Barreirinhas, 400km along a beautiful  coastal setting, crossing countless beaches, dunes, rivers and lagoons as well as the Delta do Parnaíba and Jercoacoara national park.

Going straight by jeep is by far the easiest but also the costliest way to get to the Lençois Marenhenses (from 1200 Reais for up to four people). There is a very good alternative which can be self-organised and makes a pretty exciting journey as well. The trip starts with a 4WD truck for 45km along the coast to the fishing and market town of Camocim. It’s a regular transport for many Jericoacoara residents who use it to get to the closest town to do some shopping, but for me it was an absolutely amazing and unique trip. The first stretch leads directly along the beach, later the jeep enters the dunes, passes remote villages and dry mangrove landscapes. Plenty of farm animals like cows, pigs and goats can be seen along the way moving around freely in the landscape. We had to cross rivers twice. The first one on a tiny, totally shaky raft that was moved manually across the river, the second one with a bigger, motorized boat. Even though Camocim is only 45km away, the trip takes three hours. I was more than glad it took that long since I highly enjoyed every minute in the open jeep marvelling at the landscape passing by. 

Driving right next to the ocean ... priceless

Entering our tiny raft

Jericoacoara National Park

The next part of the journey isn’t as exciting as you will go by minibus to Parnaíba and then by regular bus to a small village called Paulino Neves. This is as far as you can get in one day, choosing this more economical mode of transport. At least there are good value pousadas in Paulino Neves. In the morning there is transport to Barreirinhas at 4am and 9am, again by 4WD open jeep along sandy roads. If you take the 4am one, you can fit in a Lençois tour and move on to São Luís the same day. We took the 9am one, after a great breakfast at our pousada, did a half day tour to the dunes the same day, a full-day tour by boat the following day and only moved on the third day.

If time is on your side stop in Parnaíba and take a day trip to the Delta do Parnaíba, a vast expanse of islands, beaches, lagoons, channels, high sand dunes and dense mangrove forest brimming with wildlife.

Lençois Maranhenses – Vast, surreal sand dunes and crystal-clear lagoons

This is without any doubt one of the most amazing places you can find in Brazil. For me it was the most fascinating one in the North for sure. The immense National Park stretches 70 km along the coast and up to 25 km inland. It’s located between Jericoacoara and São Luís.

Lençois Maranhenses literally means bed sheets of Maranhão (this is the name of the region the National Park is located in). The name refers to its immense expanses of dunes, which look like bed sheets strewn across the landscape. The park is supposedly at its best between March and September when rain forms hundreds of crystal-clear pools and lakes between the dunes. However, there are also advantages in visiting during low season like we did. Mainly because the park isn’t crowded by tourists. There will always be some, but the numbers are considerably lower before and at the beginning of the rain season from October to January, whilst the park ist still stunningly beautiful.

The main base for visiting the park is Barreirinhas on the Rio Preguiças near the parks southeast corner. Unless you’re lucky enough to know a local with a 4WD Jeep, the only way to visit the park is on a tourist tour. Going from Barreirinhas to the lençois in a 4WD vehicle takes about an hour. It’s an enjoyable, picturesque ride along sandy roads. Once there, you’ll leave the car and continue exploring the park by foot which is the best way to experience the beauty of this natural wonder. Our walk lasted about an hour and took us to the only lagoon that carried water at this time of the year: A Lagoa dos Peixes – The fish lagoon. Its crystal clear water is full of tiny fish that will start nibbling on your skin as soon as you enter the lagoon. 

During our second day in Barreirinhas we went on a boat trip that is also highly recommendable. Barreirinhas is located directly on the shore of Rio Preguiças, so boats leave from the town centre. The wonderful seven-hour boat ride took us down the Rio to the ocean, passing jungle, mangroves, and dunes. Stops included a laid-back beach jungle bar with lots of hammocks and locals selling chilled coconuts and other refreshing drinks. It’s also home to a great amount of cheerful, curious, tiny monkeys desperately trying to obtain some tasty snacks from the visitors. Further stops included a small fishing village with a light house offering great panoramas and an ocean beach with lots of improvised restaurants for lunch.

TIP: For that true end-of-the-road feeling catch another boat from the last stop at Caburé to the remote village of Atins, where the Rio Preguiças meets the ocean. It is a good base for visiting some of the more isolated parts of the park. Here you have a fair chance of having some gorgeous dunes and lagoons all for yourself. Furthermore, the small village with a notable foreign population has a surprising amount of good value hostels.

Accomodation in Barreirinhas: There is plenty of accommodation in this town which serves as the main base for visiting the National Park for most visitors. Whilst in the high season (June-August) it may make sense to book ahead, in the low season (November to February) you are definitely in a position to bargain. The way we found a very good value accommodation was by going to the São Paulo Ecotourism office in the town centre. After telling them we were looking for a room and what we expected to pay, they called different accommodation options in town to check prices and availability. That’s how we found our double room for 40 Reais (≈13€) that even included breakfast. Our posada was nothing special and wouldn’t get five stars on cleanliness, but since we were just looking for a bed to fall in after an amazing, but exhausting day exploring the stunning national park it was totally fine for us and we were very happy about the price. Expect to pay a bit more if you’re looking for some more comfort, but in general I found accommodation surprisingly cheap in Barreirinhas compared to other Brazilian destinations. Surely, this was another advantage of arriving in low season.

São Luís and Alcântara – enchanting, atmosphere-laden colonial gems

Steamy cobbled streets and pastel-coloured colonial mansions, some of them handsomely restored, many deep in tropical decay. Colourful 19^th century Portuguese azulejos gracefully decorating the facades of old buildings protecting them from the ever-present humidity and heat. This is the irresistible beauty of the World-Heritage-listed historic centre of São Luís, one of the most charming and beautiful cities of the Northern region.

It’s the only city in Brazil that was founded by the French, but is heavily characterised by Portuguese architecture. Sometimes you’ll feel like being lost in Lisbon or Porto on a very hot summer day. São Luís has the third-highest Afro-Brazilian population in the country, after Rio de Janeiro and Salvador, which results in a unique atmosphere and a markedly Afro-Brazilian tinge to its culture. It is also home to the best concentration of museums, galleries and craft stores in the Northeast.

I also really loved the atmosphere at night, especially on and around Largo do Comércio, a wide pleasant square in the heart of the centro histórico. There are plenty of bars and restaurants with live bands playing a variety of rhythms – samba, chorinho, jazz, blues, bossa nova… But you don’t even have to have a drink or a meal in the rather expensive places around the square to enjoy the music. You can just hang around the plaza like many, many locals do and soak up the marvellous atmosphere. When in São Luís, just come here every evening, you won’t be bored. The city is also known as being Brazil’s reggae capital, so you should also make sure to check out some of the overwhelmingly plentiful reggae bars around town and the city’s beaches. 

Where to stay in São Luís: We stayed at the HI Hostel “Solar das Pedras” on Rua da Palma and really liked it. It’s located in a beautifully restored 19th century building in the historic centre, has spacious common rooms, a clean and well-equipped kitchen, helpful staff, book exchange, and a good breakfast. Rooms are rather small and often lack windows, but are spotless and well-ventilated. Perhaps the best value in town, we paid 80 Reais for a double room, with private bathroom and breakfast included. HI members pay 10% less.

A boat trip across the Baía de São Marcos to the beautiful colonial town of Alcântara surely shouldn’t be missed. The tranquil town offers an atmospheric mixture of ruined, maintained and restored mansions, houses and churches set along streets of artistic crisscrossed cobblestones. The population today is no bigger than 150 years ago, making it one of the country’s most tranquil, authentic, and stunningly beautiful historic sites. The city is also known for its high number of guarás, beautiful red ibises, adding yet another wonderful element to an Alcântara trip.

How to get to Alcântara: There are usually 2-3 boats in the morning heading to Alcântara leaving from Cais da Praia Grande. Times depend on the tide, but the boats usually leave between 7am and 9am. It‘s not possible to get to Alcântara later since the water will be completely gone. It’s a good idea to go to the boat terminal the day before to ask at what time boats will be leaving the following day. Unfortunately, you can't purchase tickets the day before. So during holiday season you have to be there very early to line up and make sure you get a ticket. We went there between Christmas and New Year’s, the absolute peak season, so people advised us to be there at 5am to make sure we get a ticket… It was still absolutely worth it J

Boats are heading back from Alcântara to São Luís around 4-5pm, sometimes even earlier depending on the tide. So it might be a good idea to stay there for a night and head back the next day to really enjoy some time in this beautiful place. There is a good selection of pousadas in Alcântara that seem to have better prices than the ones in São Luís.

Belém – The gateway to the Amazon 

The city of mango trees, as Belém (literally Bethlehem) is also known, is a surprisingly pleasant and atmospheric urban area. The Amazon is not exactly known for its cities, but this is a really rewarding one that leaves a lasting impression. Its streets and parks are shaded by huge mango trees and it has a number of fascinating monuments and buildings.

Huge mango tree in the city center

I totally loved and enjoyed the atmosphere of the waterfront Market “Ver-o-peso”. It’s a lively market directly by the river shore with a colourful display of fruits and veggies, spices and herbs, medical plants from the Amazon, clothes, souvenirs, local food, and much more. It can be best enjoyed in the morning or late afternoon due to the ever-present heat prevailing the city.

Ver-o-peso market

Waterfront market "Ver-o-peso" 

Another highlight for me was the “Mangal das Garças”, a beautiful park in the middle of the city centre located on the banks of massive Rio Guamá, which is part of Amazon river system. It’s a way to experience Amazon wildlife and vegetation without leaving the city. What makes it really special is the close contact to native exotic birds as well as other Amazonian animals and vegetation. There is a great amount of those amazingly beautiful red ibises called guarás as well as garças that give the place its name.

Guarás at Mangal das Garças

Mangal das Garças

General Travel Info

(Prices in local currency: 1 Euro = 3 Reais)

Accomodation: We mainly stayed in so-called pousadas, which in Brazil are simple, inexpensive guest houses, or hostels. Double rooms with private bathroom usually cost between 60-80 Reais per room and often include breakfast. With some cut backs on comfort and cleanliness we also found double rooms with shared bathrooms for 30-40 Reais including (!) a small breakfast. (Single rooms typically cost 5-10 Reais less than the doubles)
Dorms cost between 20-30 Reais, so if you’re at least 2ppl you can’t really save a lot here
Some hostels and camping grounds have designated areas for stringing up hammocks. We paid between 10-25 Reais for that. Try to bargain here. I wouldn’t have expected it, but I totally loved sleeping in a hammock, especially being outside, breathing fresh air and listening the sound of the ocean, river, jungle, or wherever you end up! Hammocks can be purchased nearly everywhere in Northern Brazil. We bought the simplest, cheapest version for 20 Reais, that also had the advantage of being super light, but was still really comfy to sleep in. You can also buy mosquito nets which are particularly designed to use with hammocks. In some places this is indispensable!
We also couchsurfed three times in Brazil: in Recife, Belém and later in Manaus. All experiences were great and it seemed relatively easy to find a host in the big cities.

Transportation: We used long-distance busses all along the way from Recife to Belém (with exception for some unpaved stretches along the coast that were travelled by 4WD Jeep). Buses are rather expensive in comparison to other Latin American countries, costing between 10-15 Reais per hour of travelling. Distances are huge in Brazil, so travelling 10-12 hours to the next destination is nothing unusual.
We met quite a few people who were hitchhiking along the coast and their experiences were really good and encouraging. It’s a great way to get to know locals and practice your Portuguese! Try to do it together with someone else though, usually male/female pairs work really well.

Food: We mainly ate at simple, inexpensive restaurants and usually paid 15 Reais for a meal and a drink (almost always freshly prepared fruit juice). Since we’re vegetarians we often asked for an additional discount since they usually don’t have any vegetarian plates and just leave out the meat on their usual plates. Many times we got a discount along with an extra portion of fresh salad.

Breakfast is included in most pousadas, but can also be cheaply purchased in cafés (usually no more than 10 Reais per person, including coffee, fresh fruit juice, and food). Tapioca is a very typical North Eastern dish and makes a great and inexpensive breakfast. It’s kind of a pancake made from the native mandioca root. It can be filled with a variety of sweet or salty fillings. Costs between 2-6 Reais depending on the filling.

Activities: We didn’t do many organized tours. Whenever possible we try to self-organize our trips and visit places independently. The only time we booked tours was in the Lençois Maranhenses National Park because there was no option of visiting the park otherwise. We paid 60 Reais per person for a half-day trip (4h) to the dunes including guide and transportation and 70 Reais for a full-day boat trip (7h) including guide and transportation.

In most beach destinations excursions by buggy that can take up to 5 people are really popular in order to explore the surroundings. Usually those trips are paid per vehicle and not per person, so if you’re group you can get a good price. I talked to people who paid 20 Reais per person for a full-day trip in the Jericoacoara National Park.

In many cities admission to museums was free or extremely inexpensive (1-2 Reais).

Guide book: During our trip we used the latest Lonely Planet edition and found it really helpful to get a general overview, some background info, and above all to find good value food options and pousadas. It’s generally easy to find something cheap if you’re looking for it, but it’s not always easy to find quality food and atmospheric hostels for a good price. The information (like prices, directions, opening hours etc.) was very accurate, probably owned to the fact that the edition came out in November 2013 and we went to Brazil the following month. It probably saved us a lot of time, hassle, and money, so it was definitely worth the investment.
We travelled with the ebook and printed the chapters we really needed in copy shops. On the road every gram counts!
From the "South America on a shoe string" ebook single chapters can be purchased for 2,95€ each. Purchasing the Brazil chapter instead of the whole guide book could be an option to save some money. 

Traveling Brazil’s Northern Coast Part I: From Recife to Jericoacoara

When I told people I was going to Recife, most of them didn’t have a clue where that was, despite being one of the biggest cities in Brazil. The North of Latin America’s giant still remains vastly unknown to the majority of travellers. Admittedly, it’s almost impossible to see the entire country, covering 47% of the whole continent, unless you’ve got lots of time at your hands. So most people opt for seeing exciting Rio de Janeiro, discovering São Paulo’s vibrant restaurant and bar scene, and soak up the unique Afro-Brazilian atmosphere of Salvador. Fair enough, bu there is a lot to discover in the North as well. To put it in the words of the latest Lonely Planet edition: “Those looking for the soul of Brazil would do well to focus on the Northeast.” The region offers a unique mixture of culture, music and history as well as spectacular natural landscapes and beautiful, near empty, tropical beaches.

What I liked most about it: You hardly meet other tourists. Most travellers are either from Brazil or live in Brazil. The fact that we travelled the North in December, when it’s nice and warm in the more popular South of the country and the rain season is about to start in the North, may have added to our experience being mostly the only foreigners on buses as well as hostels and even tourist jaunts. In the end, we only had one afternoon of rain in three weeks, which was a wonderful, refreshing relief from the heat. 

Recife and Olinda – The big bustling city and its tranquil artsy neighbour

Our first stop in Brazil’s Northeast was the region's biggest city Recife, located at the river mouth of Rio Capibaribe and Rio Beberibe on the Atlantic coast. Its name is an allusion to the many reefs that lay by the city's shore calming its waters and forming natural swimming pools. According to Lonely Planet it is "the Northeast’s most exciting city after Salvador, with a vibrant cultural, entertainment and restaurant scene, an intriguing historic centre, an impressive coastal setting, and a fabulous Carnaval."

The city center is a jumble of glassy high rises, colonial churches and crowded market places located on several islands and peninsulas with many bridges crisscrossing the waterways. Apparently, more than 50 bridges can be found in Recife, which is why it has been nicknamed “Venice of Brazil”. 

As for me, it certainly wasn't love at first sight. I felt lost between the uncountable skyscrapers, the busy traffic was absolutely annoying, it really didn't smell too great in many corners, and the heat was close to unbearable.

Luckily, things were meant to change soon. Whilst Recife certainly won't nominate as one of my favourite Latin American cities, I still had a great time there and there are some nice places to discover in the city.

First of all, try to stay in Boa Viagem instead of the city center. We were lucky enough to find a host through Couchsurfing in this lively middle class suburb south of the center. There are way too many skyscrapers for my taste as well, but it has a nice beach that stretches 5km along Recife’s southern coast. It’s a palm-lined, fine sand beach with lots of reefs offshore that tranquil the waters and form natural swimming pools. Unfortunately, swimming is kind of limited here due to the high risk of shark attack. Swimming outside the protection of the reefs is not recommended.

At night the beach is the place to meet. I was intrigued by the lively activities taking place on and around the beach. Numerous joggers run along the seafront, people practice various kinds of sport on the beach, play music, have picnic with friends. The countless little huts along the seafront sell aqua de coco, delicious well-chilled coconut water that comes with the whole coconut, and other snacks. A fresh breeze coming from the Atlantic gives some release from the strenous heat prevailing the city most of the time.

The main districts of interest in the center are Santo Antonio and the historic Recife Antigo. The former one is a busy commercial area with uncountable shops and stalls lining its streets. Apart from this, it boasts imposing 19th century governmental buildings and colonial churches. After dark and on Sunday afternoon, however, its streets are near empty. I really liked Recife Antigo at the ocean front. It's probably the second best place to stay after Boa Viagem. The district has been beautifully revitalised in recent years. It has a European tinge to it with narrow streets, beautiful historic buildings, cobble stones, and historic tram rails. There is an amazing atmosphere at night, too. A great number of restaurants and bars fill the street with yellow plastic chairs, which get packed with people. Numerous bands playing a variety of rhythyms are competing for your eardrums at the venues and on the street.

Recife Antigo at night

Having a drink with our couchsurfing host Valdeis in Recife Antigo

Recife Antigo

TIP: Try to go to a traditional restaurant in one of the residential areas. You won't find them advertised in any travel guide, but it's well worth asking locals for advise. We went to an amazing traditional restaurant in Recife´s East thanks to our Couchsurfing host and it was a very special experience. The place served typical Northeastern food, that was three times cheaper than in Boa Viagem or the City Center, but way more delicious. It was not only the food, but also the atmosphere. The place was packed with locals, with a long queue waiting outside for the next available table. Luckily, the restaurant manager was so excited about international visitors that they quickly arranged a small table for us, so we didn't have to wait. They also gave us some samples of typical food for free as well as two beautiful pieces of handcraft as a gift. I don't remember ever having experienced so much hospitality and warmth in a restaurant!
Since this place really is a little treasure, rarely frequented by tourists, I don't just wanna give the name and location away here. However, if you're really interested in going to this restaurant, just leave a comment and I will let you know where to find it :-)

If you’re in Recife, a day trip to its cute, artsy, tree covered neighbour Olinda is absolutely obligatory. Olinda means literally “Oh, beautiful” and totally lives up to its name. It’s one of the prettiest places we saw during our trip along the Northern coast. The beautiful well-preserved colonial town is set on a tree covered hill about 6km north of the big city. Olinda consists of beautiful twisting streets with colourful houses and gorgeous colonial churches. It’s full of creative types, galleries, artisan’s workshops as well as street art are plenty. On the hill you get amazing vistas over Olinda’s red tile roofs, church towers and countless trees as well as the ocean and Recife’s skyscrapers that stand towering in the distance. Olinda has a few cute beaches, but they have shark warning signs, too.

Praia da Pipa – Pristine beaches, tall cliffs, ecological vibe, and lots of dolphins

The next stop during our trip was Praia da Pipa, located in the small state of Rio Grande do Norte, approximately 250km north of Recife. It's a three hour bus ride from Recife to Goianinha, followed by 45min on a minibus along a very beautiful coastal setting. 

Once a small fishing village without paved roads, it was discovered by surfers only 30 years ago, and has since turned into a popular destination for surfers as well as day and weekend trippers from the region. Pipa also receives some international visitors year round, but they are the minority. Despite the touristic appearance of its main street, with lots of restaurants, bars, surf and souvenir shops, Pipa hasn’t entirely lost its original independent, laid-back character. 

The main beach tends to be a bit crowded. However, several nice, long, near empty beaches can be found along the coast. They’re backed by tall cliffs and therefore only accessible from the main beach. Baía dos Golfinhos, west of the main beach, is a great place to spot dolphins. The adorable creatures are abundant here and come really close to the beach. It's virtually impossible to not see them here. It is also a very nice, quite empty beach with locals selling cold drinks, coconuts, and caipirinhas. Due to the tide, the beach is only accessible in the morning and late afternoon.
Further west lies Praia do Madeiro which is even more secluded and harder to reach than Baía dos Golfinhos. Walking into the other direction from the main beach, you’ll find Praia do Amor which is home to a great amount of sea turtles.

What I liked a lot about this place is the environmental conscious attitude of many locals trying to preserve the natural beauty of Pipa and the region. At the entrance to the main beach and along the beaches you can find creative collages made of trash collected at Pipa’s beaches trying to raise people’s awareness about not leaving trash behind. Restaurants try to reduce food waste by charging an extra fee if you leave left-overs on your plate. This is due to the self-service character of many restaurants, where buffets are offered and people tend to overfill their plates and don’t finish the food. However, the ecological attitude also seems to work as a marketing strategy for some people since there are some tour operators and shops in Pipa that call themselves “ecological” without any apparent hint to environmental conscious behaviour.

Best place to eat in Pipa

When in Pipa, and you’re like us more the low-budget kind of traveller, there is one place you definitely have to eat at: Dona Branca at the far end of the main street can’t be beat for its great value food. It has an absolutely amazing buffet with 18 different choices that are virtually all vegan: some typical local treats like macacheira, mandioca, and cuscuz de milho as well as various kinds of veggies in delicious sauces, pasta, rice, beans, a variety of salads and fresh fruits. Carnivores get two different kinds of meat with it. The whole menu is only 10 Reais, a little over 3 Euro, and you can refill your plate as many times as you want. It’s delicious, good quality food and one of the best places I have eaten at during this trip. It’s a family run restaurant with a great atmosphere and an ocean view! They will charge a 3 Reais fine if you leave food on your plate, but that’s very unlikely to happen!

A short stop in Fortaleza

Fortaleza, the state capital of Ceará, is a surprisingly big city without any specific attractions of note. The centre is full of busy streets with many small stores. The good thing about Fortaleza is that it has lots of good value accommodations. Due to high competition prices are very low. We found a very nice, beautifully decorated hostel with great rates for double rooms, so we stayed two nights instead of one, as originally planned.

Furthermore, the hostel is located very close to the best (and only?) attraction in Fortaleza: the Centro Dragão do Mar de Arte e Cultura. It’s kind of a cultural centre and Fortaleza’s social focus that houses cinemas, performance spaces, a good café, a planetarium, and two museums that are both free: the contemporary art museum and an exhibition on the region’s traditional way of life and culture. It’s a great place to hang out during the heat of the day, meet people, have a coffee, and learn about the region’s culture and social life. It has an interesting architecture with elevated walkways that join the different parts of the complex, plus it’s constructed in a way that most rooms stay cool and get a nice breeze which is a very important feature in this awkwardly hot city. Apart from this, it’s surrounded by some pleasantly restored old buildings hosting restaurants and bars as well as some unusual kinds of palm trees and interesting pieces of street art. So if you can only visit one place in Fortaleza, no doubt this is the one you need to see.  

View from the Cultural Complex

Basically, Fortaleza makes a great stop over on the way from Pipa to Jericoacoara, which was our next stop. It’s already an overnight bus trip from Pipa to Fortaleza (approx. 10 hours), plus 5-6 hours to get to Jericoacoara from there. So it’s a good idea to pause here for one or two days and have a glance at one of Brazil’s biggest cities.

Jericoacoara – The mystical, hard-to-reach backpacker’s magnet

Jericoacoara is a myth. We first heard about this tongue-twisting town when we were still in Spain, hitching a ride from Sevilla towards Portugal with a German couple. The guy grew up in Brazil and when he heard about our plans to go there, he told us immediately we had to go see Jericoacoara. It took me quite some time to get the name and write it in my little note book, so I didn’t forget about it again. He talked about it enthusiastically describing it as a remote place with a Hippie atmosphere, amazing beaches, and unpaved sandy roads. 

Jeri's broad beach at low tide

Even though “Jeri”, as many of its admirers refer to it, is not as remote and “hippie” anymore as it might have been some 20 or 30 years ago, it’s still a very special place. Its isolated position inside a far-flung national park at the top-edge of the country is special. It’s surrounded by beautiful sand dunes, lagoons with crystal clear water (especially after the rain season from June to August) and gorgeous remote beaches. The only way to get there is by camionete, a 4WD passenger truck from the closest town with paved roads.

There are no paved roads in the town, either. The village’s sandy roads are wedged between a broad beach, a series of grassy hills and a majestic sand dune, which is called Pôr do Sol (sunset) dune. Every evening a crowd gathers on the dune, cold drinks in their hands, to watch what is supposed to be one of South America’s most stunning sunsets. 

Gathering on the sunset dune 

As illumination of the streets is forbidden by local law, you walk barefoot along the dark sandy roads at night, the only lights coming from the numerous bars, cafés, restaurants, ice cream parlors, and other shops. This makes it a very special, cozy place at night and adds to its otherworldly allure.

Even though it seems a rather quiet place at first sight, nightlife in Jeri is legendary. A wild mix of traditional music like samba and forró, (typical Northeastern country music), as well as rock, reggae and electronic music can be found here. The party usually starts at the end of Rua Principal, right at the entrance to the beach, where dozens of local entrepreneurs mix a broad variety of caipirinhas and other cocktails in their little cocktail carts. Sometimes a DJ a plays music and people dance in the sand. Later at night, people move on to the various venues, where the party typically only really starts around 2am and lasts into the early morning hours. There are bakeries in town that only open from 2am to 7am to serve freshly baked goods and coffee to party-goers on their way home.

However, it’s still not the annoying kind of nightlife and if you’re not into it, it can totally be avoided. 

In case you manage not to doze the whole day away in your hammock after an exciting night out, there are lots of things to do during the day as well. First of all, Jeri is a mecca for wind- and kitesurfers due to its steady winds between June and February. Simply watching the world-class kite surfers is absolutely amazing.

Jeris surroundings are typically explored by buggy (four-wheel, five-seat contraptions) that roar along the beaches and up and down the dunes to take you to beautiful lagoons, small fishing villages, and remote beaches. A more ecological way to explore the area is by horseback-riding or simply by foot, but you might not get to the distant, remote places.  

A beautiful walk makes a visit to Pedra Furada, an arched rock 3 km east of town, the symbol of Jericoacoara and a popular post card motive. The walk leads along a stunning coastal setting, either up on the hill or during low tide along the beach with lots of rocky patches.

Walk along the coast

Pedra Furada

There are capoeira classes at the beach in the morning and afternoon, the latter are followed by an open capoeira performance that always attracts a crowd.

Jeri is definitely that kind of destination where most people end up staying longer than originally planned. We planned for two days and stayed five. Note that there is no ATM in town that accepts international credit cards, so take enough cash as you might want to stay some extra nights.

In case you run out anyway, there is regular transport to Jijoca which has international ATMs. The 45min ride in an open 4WD costs 10 Reais each way. The supermarket “Tem de tudo” in Jeri gives cash advances on credit cards but charges a 15% fee for it. They also change US Dollar at a fair rate, so does the Hostel Tirol. 

General Travel Info

(Prices in local currency: 1 Euro = 3 Reais)

Accomodation: We mainly stayed in so-called pousadas, which in Brazil are simple, inexpensive guest houses, or hostels. Double rooms with private bathroom usually cost between 60-80 Reais per room and often include breakfast. With some cut backs on comfort and cleanliness we also found double rooms with shared bathrooms for 30-40 Reais including (!) a small breakfast. (Single rooms typically cost 5-10 Reais less than the doubles)

Dorms cost between 20-30 Reais, so if you’re at least 2ppl you can’t really save a lot here

Some hostels and camping grounds have designated areas for stringing up hammocks. We paid between 10-25 Reais for that. Try to bargain here. I wouldn’t have expected it, but I totally loved sleeping in a hammock, especially being outside, breathing fresh air and listening the sound of the ocean, river, jungle, or wherever you end up! Hammocks can be purchased nearly everywhere in Northern Brazil. We bought the simplest, cheapest version for 20 Reais, that also had the advantage of being super light, but was still really comfy to sleep in. You can also buy mosquito nets which are particularly designed to use with hammocks. In some places this is indispensable!

We also couchsurfed three times in Brazil: in Recife, Belém and later in Manaus. All experiences were great and it seemed relatively easy to find a host in the big cities.

Transportation: We used long-distance busses all along the way from Recife to Belém (with exception for some unpaved stretches along the coast that were travelled by 4WD Jeep). Buses are rather expensive in comparison to other Latin American countries, costing between 10-15 Reais per hour of travelling. Distances are huge in Brazil, so travelling 10-12 hours to the next destination is nothing unusual.

We met quite a few people who were hitchhiking along the coast and their experiences were really good and encouraging. It’s a great way to get to know locals and practice your Portuguese! Try to do it together with someone else though, usually male/female pairs work really well.

Food: We mainly ate at simple, inexpensive restaurants and usually paid 15 Reais for a meal and a drink (almost always freshly prepared fruit juice). Since we’re vegetarians we often asked for an additional discount since they usually don’t have any vegetarian plates and just leave out the meat on their usual plates. Many times we got a discount along with an extra portion of fresh salad.

Breakfast is included in most pousadas, but can also be cheaply purchased in cafés (usually no more than 10 Reais per person, including coffee, fresh fruit juice, and food). Tapioca is a very typical North Eastern dish and makes a great and inexpensive breakfast. It’s kind of a pancake made from the native mandioca root. It can be filled with a variety of sweet or salty fillings. Costs between 2-6 Reais depending on the filling.

Activities: We didn’t do many organized tours. Whenever possible we try to self-organize our trips and visit places independently. The only time we booked tours was in the Lençois Maranhenses National Park because there was no option of visiting the park otherwise. We paid 60 Reais per person for a half-day trip (4h) to the dunes including guide and transportation and 70 Reais for a full-day boat trip (7h) including guide and transportation.

In most beach destinations excursions by buggy that can take up to 5 people are really popular in order to explore the surroundings. Usually those trips are paid per vehicle and not per person, so if you’re group you can get a good price. I talked to people who paid 20 Reais per person for a full-day trip in the Jericoacoara National Park.

In many cities admission to museums was free or extremely inexpensive (1-2 Reais).

Guide book: During our trip we used the latest Lonely Planet edition and found it really helpful to get a general overview, some background info, and above all to find good value food options and pousadas. It’s generally easy to find something cheap if you’re looking for it, but it’s not always easy to find quality food and atmospheric hostels for a good price. The information (like prices, directions, opening hours etc.) was very accurate, probably owned to the fact that the edition came out in November 2013 and we went to Brazil the following month. It probably saved us a lot of time, hassle, and money, so it was definitely worth the investment.

We travelled with the ebook and printed the chapters we really needed in copy shops. On the road every gram counts!

From the "South America on a shoe string" ebook single chapters can be purchased for 2,95€ each. Purchasing the Brazil chapter instead of the whole guide book could be an option to save some money. 

Mit dem Schiff über den Atlantik: In 9 Tagen von Europa nach Lateinamerika

Für unsere Reise nach Südamerika hatten wir uns fest vorgenommen mit einem Schiff oder Boot zu fahren, anstatt einfach in ein Flugzeug zu steigen. Wir wollten die wahre Entfernung zwischen den Kontinenten spüren. Erfahren wie es ist, tagelang nichts als den Ozean zu sehen. Uns langsam unserem Reiseziel nähern, statt nach ein paar Flugstunden an einem anderen Fleck der Erde auszusteigen. 

Niemals hätte ich zu Beginn unserer Reise gedacht, dass wir den Atlantik ausgerechnet mit einem Kreuzfahrtschiff überqueren würden. Allein schon wegen unseres Budgets und weil ich nie darauf gekommen wäre überhaupt nach Angeboten zu suchen. Jorge fand das Angebot von Pullmantur, eine spanische Schifffahrt-Gesellschaft, im Internet. Für knapp 400 Euro kann man die neuntägige Schiffsreise von der portugiesischen Hauptstadt nach Recife im Nordosten Brasiliens antreten. Man bekommt dafür eine komfortable Kabine mit Meerblick, Vollverpflegung und Getränke (Erfrischungsgetränke, Saft, Wasser, Wein, Bier) inklusive. Und wird nebenbei nach Südamerika geschifft. Der Preis ist nur ein Bruchteil davon, was man sonst für so eine Kreuzfahrt bezahlt. Es war das erste Mal, dass sie auf der Atlantiküberquerung Passagiere mitgenommen haben. Offenbar gibt es dafür noch nicht genug Nachfrage. Auf dem Schiff waren gerade mal 200 Passagiere, Platz gäbe es für 1800. In der letzten Woche vor der Abfahrt sind sie mit dem Preis nochmal runtergegangen, sodass die Fahrt für 300 Euro zu haben war. Es lohnt sich also bis zum letzten Moment zu warten und auch bei anderen Gesellschaften nachzuschauen, da die meisten ihre Schiffe im Winter in den Süden bringen und man da oft recht günstig mitfahren kann.

Bildunterschrift hinzufügen

Kurz vor der Abfahrt in Lissabon 

Bye bye Lisboa, sicher nicht für immer

Neun Tage dauert die Fahrt von Lissabon nach Recife, der fünftgrößten Stadt im Nordosten des fünftgrößten Landes der Welt, das fast die Hälfte des lateinamerikanischen Kontinents bedeckt, nämlich 47 Prozent. Es war wirklich faszinierend tagelang nur von dem endlos weiten Wasserteppich umgeben zu sein. Besonders zu Beginn waren wir wie elektrisiert von dem Anblick und starrten stundenlang auf die unendlichen Wassermassen, auf denen die Sonne funkelte, und bestaunten den hellblau leuchtenden Himmel mit seinen formschönen Zuckerwatte-Tupfern. Während unserer Reise fuhren wir mehrmals an Inseln vorbei: am dritten Tag an Teneriffa, am fünften Tag an den kapverdischen Inseln und am vorletzten Tag konnten wir bereits Brasilien begrüßen, als wir die zum Land gehörigen Fernando de Noronha Inseln passierten. Die Inseln kündigten sich stets damit an, dass auf einmal Vögel am Himmel zu sehen waren. Manchmal schon Stunden bevor die Inseln überhaupt in Sicht waren.

Besonders beeindruckend ist auf dem offenen Meer der Sonnenauf- und –untergang. Den Sonnenaufgang habe ich leider bis auf zweimal verschlafen, weil der immer zu unterschiedlichen Zeiten und außerdem immer früher passierte. Dafür haben wir jeden Abend dabei zugeschaut wie der glühende gelb-leuchtende Feuerball hinterm Horizont verschwindet und wurden mit fantastischen Farbenspielen am Himmel belohnt. Jorge hatte außerdem einmal das Glück ein paar Delfine zu sichten. Das ist mir leider nicht gelungen, obwohl ich viel Zeit damit verbrachte, den unendlichen Ozean zu bestaunen. Auch wenn es dort nicht viel zu sehen geben scheint, verändert sich die Aussicht doch ständig. Die Wellen sind mal mehr, mal weniger hoch. Die Farbe des Ozeans veränderte sich. Je weiter wir raus fuhren, umso mehr verwandelte sie sich in ein tiefes Indigo-blau, wogegen sie zu Beginn eher blau-gräulich schien und kurz vor Recife einen  intensiven Türkiston annahm. Die Sonne spiegelt sich unterschiedlich intensiv auf dem Ozean und die Wolkenformationen ändern sich ständig. Manchmal erblickt man in der Ferne andere Schiffe, vor allem Containerschiffe und Segelboote, sowie winzig kleine Inseln, die eher Felsen im Meer gleichen.

Wem das Betrachten des Ozeans irgendwann zu langweilig wird, hat auf so einem Kreuzfahrtschiff natürlich unglaublich viele Möglichkeiten sich abzulenken. Den ganzen Tag über gibt es ein Programm. Von Musik-, Film-, Länder- und was weiß ich für Quizze über Karaoke, Tanzstunden, Kreativitätsworkshops und dem obligatorischen Bingo. Außerdem gab es einen Fitnessraum, ein Casino, Geschäfte zum duty-free-shoppen, vier oder fünf Bars, eine Diskothek, eine Art Theater, in dem jeden Abend eine andere Show aufgeführt wurde, eine Bibliothek mit überteuertem Internetzugang, mehrere Whirlpools, einen Beautysalon und einen riesigen Poolbereich mit Animation.

Echt Wahnsinn, was da für ein Aufwand betrieben wird. Mich hat das bis auf den Pool, vor allem als es langsam immer heißer wurde, wenig interessiert. Zum Glück kann man sich gut von diesem Programm abkapseln. Ich hatte ein paar gute Bücher dabei, war fest entschlossen mein Portugiesisch-Grammatikbuch durchzuarbeiten, außerdem den Reiseführer zu studieren und sonst einfach nur das weite Meer zu genießen. Außerdem konnte ich mich endlich mal wieder ausgiebig meiner Yoga- und Meditationspraxis widmen. Dort draußen auf dem Meer hat man so unglaublich viel Zeit für all die Sachen für die man sonst viel zu wenig Zeit findet. Meist habe ich versucht vor allen anderen aufzustehen, denn die stillen Morgenstunden auf dem Ozean sind einfach die Besten.

Jeden Tag wurde es ein bisschen wärmer, ab dem vierten Tag konnten wir den Pool nutzen. Davor war der Bereich erstens gesperrt und außerdem war es noch zu kalt zum Baden. Ab dem fünften Tag hätten die Temperaturen meiner Meinung nach so bleiben können wie sie sind. Doch da wir einen kontinuierlichen Kurs nach Süden nahmen war klar, dass es nun jeden Tag ein paar Grad wärmer würde. Dafür drehten sie die Air-Con im Inneren des Bootes auf, sodass niemand schwitzen musste, der das nicht wollte. Am Abend des achten Tages überquerten wie den Äquator. Ich hätte gedacht, dass wir spätestens dann vor Hitze zergehen würden. Das war aber gar nicht so. Es war schon recht warm, aber allein durch den Fahrtwind wehte stets eine angenehme Brise, sodass es nie unerträglich wurde. Auch die Uhren stellten wir Stück für Stück zurück. An jedem dritten Tag wurde uns eine Stunde geschenkt. Am Ende betrug der Zeitunterschied zwischen Lissabon und Recife drei Stunden. Ich hatte mit mehr gerechnet. Von der deutschen Zeit bin ich hier in Brasilien gerade mal vier Stunden entfernt.

pool area at night

Mit unserem "Privat"kellner Wayang beim Dinner

Unsere schnuckelige Kabine mit Meerblick

Super leckeres und viel zu viel Essen, hier beim Frühstücken

Wir hatten wirklich Glück, dass wir mit so wenig Menschen auf dem Schiff waren. So hatten wir ganz viel Platz und konnten immer einen ruhigen Ort finden. Außerdem wurde auch die Animation am Pool schnell eingestellt, weil sich nicht genug Interessenten fanden. Die Klientel war auf dieser Fahrt vermutlich ein bisschen anders als bei den üblichen Kreuzfahrten. Der Großteil waren brasilianische Familien, die vermutlich in Portugal leben und für eine Zeit nach Hause fahren. Außer uns gab es noch andere Rucksackreisende auf dem Schiff, die die Fahrt aufgrund der günstigen Preise gebucht hatten.  Das verbesserte für uns natürlich auch die Atmosphäre auf dem Schiff, weil wir Menschen mit ähnlichen Interessen und Plänen trafen.

Allerdings waren mehr als 600 (!) Crewmitglieder an Bord, bei gerade mal 200 Passagieren. Der Service war dementsprechend „unverbesserlich“, womit die Gesellschaft auch wirbt. In meinen Augen viel zu übertrieben. Unser Kellner beim Abendessen war gerade mal für zwei Tische verantwortlich. Und er war nicht allein. Es gab auch noch einen „Assistenz-Kellner“, der das Essen aus der Küche und die Getränke von der Bar holte. So konnte unser „Hauptkellner“ die ganze Zeit in unserer Nähe bleiben, uns beobachten und sofort herbeieilen, sobald er der Meinung war, wir könnten etwas gebrauchen. Waren unsere Gläser auch nur halbleer, wurde sofort nachgefüllt oder nach einem weiteren Getränkewunsch gefragt. Nach den ersten Tagen sah ich davon ab Wein zu trinken, da mein Glas ständig aufgefüllt wurde und ich am Ende aus dem Restaurant torkelte.

Ebenso der Reinigungsservice. Ich finde es schon viel zu viel, wenn mein Zimmer einmal am Tag sauber gemacht wird. Macht doch bei sich zu Hause auch niemand. Auf diesem Schiff rückten sie aber sowohl morgens und abends an, um unser Badezimmer in eine keimfreie Chemiezelle zu verwandeln. Das Bett wurde abends und morgens auf unterschiedliche Art hergerichtet. Außerdem wechselten sie gnadenlos alle  Handtücher, die auch nur annährend benutzt aussahen, auch wenn wir diese immer in der vorgeschriebenen Position aufhängten, die laut Anleitung signalisieren sollte, dass wir unsere Handtücher gern mehr als einmal benutzen würden. Aus den frischen Handtüchern formten sie dann Figuren, etwa Schwäne (!) oder Herzen, und drapierten sie auf unserem Bett. Wir versuchten den Reinigungsservice zu reduzieren, indem wir vormittags das „Bitte nicht stören“ Schild aufhängten. Dann kamen sie aber am Nachmittag, sobald wir das Schild entfernt hatten. Als würden sie unsere Kabine beobachten und sofort zum Putzen anrücken, sobald sich die Gelegenheit bietet. So hatten wir das Gefühl noch mehr Arbeit für das Reinigungspersonal geschaffen zu haben und ließen es von da an lieber sein.

Keine Ahnung warum sie so viel Personal mitnehmen. Wahrscheinlich brauchen sie sie für die folgenden Touren in Südamerika, die größtenteils ausgebucht sind, wie uns unser Kellner erzählte. Ich frage mich allerdings wie viel sie ihren Angestellten bezahlen. Auffällig war, dass die große Mehrheit der Angestellten aus Entwicklungsländern kommt. Um die 100 Menschen aus Indien, nochmal jeweils so viele aus Indonesien und den Philippinen, ca. 200 Menschen aus lateinamerikanischen Ländern, der Großteil aus Brasilien, 78 aus Bulgarien und noch ein paar Weitere aus anderen osteuropäischen Ländern. Lediglich neun kamen aus Spanien, fünf aus Griechenland, zwei aus Portugal, eine/r aus Italien, eine/r aus Kanada und eine/r aus Deutschland, laut Angaben von Pullmantur.

Am letzten Tag haben wir dann noch eine Rechnung über die „Service Taxes“ erhalten. Damit meinen sie das Trinkgeld. Es wurde von Anfang an gesagt, dass das Trinkgeld nicht im Preis enthalten ist. Allerdings wurde nie erwähnt, wie viel wir am Ende dafür bezahlen sollen. Ohnehin sollte das Geben von Trinkgeld und dessen Höhe ein freiwilliger Akt sein. Pullmantur bucht aber am Ende der Reise einfach 83 Euro pro Person von der Kreditkarte ab. Die Daten muss man zu Beginn der Reise angeben. Die Alternative ist 200€ pro Person in bar zu hinterlegen. Anscheinend ist das bei den meisten Gesellschaften so üblich, einfach einen von der Gesellschaft selbst festgelegten Betrag zu berechnen. Das ist sicherlich rechtlich nicht in Ordnung, wenn der Betrag bei Vertragsschluss nicht angegeben wird. Deshalb kann man dieser Praxis direkt an Bord widersprechen und diese „Servicegebühren“ umgehen oder zumindest den Betrag reduzieren. 

Da ich mich vorher darüber informiert hatte, wusste ich was auf uns zukommt. Ich war entschlossen zu widersprechen, sollten sie einen meiner Meinung nach zu hohen Betrag berechnen. Ich habe das am Ende nicht gemacht, weil der Preis meiner Meinung nach alles in allem trotzdem noch sehr günstig war, für das was wir bekommen haben. Auch wenn wir den Großteil des Angebots gar nicht genutzt haben, weil es für uns einfach nicht interessant war. Dafür hatten wir eine wunderschöne Kabine mit Blick aufs Meer, extrem leckeres (und viel zu viel) Essen und alle für uns interessanten Getränke inklusive. Außerdem hoffe ich einfach, dass das Trinkgeld wirklich an das Personal geht, die vielleicht darauf angewiesen sind ihr geringes Gehalt mit diesem Geld aufzubessern.

An Bord gibt es natürlich zahlreiche weitere Möglichkeiten sein Geld loszuwerden. Zum Beispiel im Casino, im Beauty-Salon oder in den Duty-Free-Shops sowie Wäscheservice, Roomservice, Internetzugang. Auch in den Bars und der Diskothek muss man auf dieser Tour für die Getränke bezahlen. Für uns war das allerdings weder interessant noch notwendig und wir haben nichts zusätzlich ausgegeben. Es gibt auch keinerlei Druck seitens des Personals.

Ankunft in Recife 

im Hafen von Recife 

Es war auf jeden Fall eine einzigartige Erfahrung den Ozean mit dem Schiff zu überqueren, die eigentliche Entfernung zwischen den Kontinenten zu spüren, die Uhren langsam zurückzustellen und zu fühlen wie die Temperaturen täglich höher kletterten. Ich weiß nicht, ob ich nochmal mit einem Kreuzfahrtschiff fahren würde. Vielleicht würden mich die günstigen Preise erneut verlocken. Denn es ist beispielsweise viel teurer in einem Containerschiff mitzufahren. Auch hier gibt es kommerzielle Anbieter, die Plätze auf diesen Schiffen verkaufen. Nur verlangen sie dafür oft um die 1000 Euro. Man ist allerdings auch länger unterwegs, meist um die vier Wochen. Eine andere Möglichkeit ist natürlich, einfach in den Hafen zu gehen und sich durchzufragen, ob einen jemand mitnehmen kann. Das funktioniert bestimmt auch, wenn man geduldig und ausdauernd ist. Man weiß allerdings nie wie viel Wartezeit, und eben auch Ausgaben, man vor Ort einrechnen muss. Außerdem nehmen die großen Unternehmen prinzipiell niemanden mit. Man sollte es also bei Kleineren probieren. Auf jeden Fall muss man wahrscheinlich einen Beitrag für das Essen bezahlen, es sei denn man kann auf dem Schiff auf irgendeine Art mithelfen/arbeiten. Dasselbe gilt auch für die zahlreichen Segelschiffe, die von September bis Januar den Atlantik von Europa nach Amerika überqueren. Hier ist es noch wahrscheinlicher, dass man einen Tagesbeitrag für Essen und das Mitnehmen bezahlt, so dass man da auch locker auf ein paar hundert Euro kommt. Leider ist das langsame Reisen doch meist noch teurer und aufwendiger als einfach in ein Flugzeug zu steigen. Aber es lohnt sich zweifelsohne auf diese Art zu reisen.